Unlike many mass market sex toys, indie toys are often available in a rainbow of colours (sometimes literally so)! In addition they can feature many different pour styles, which make the most of the medium of liquid platinum-cure silicone. Take a peek at this guide to indie pours, and discover just how beautiful and varied sex toys can be!
An assortment of colourful indie toys from a variety of makers. Pictured are: Changeling (M/S, Fantasy Grove/FG), Nereid (M/S, Paladin Pleasure Sculptors/PPS), Squishins (L/M, Hodge Podge Entourage/HPE), Reaver (M/M, Dread The Empire/DTE), Merfolk (L/S, Pleasure Forge/PF) and Lyra (OS/SS, XenoCat Artifacts/XCA).New to Indies?
Not sure what indies are or where to start? Check out my introduction post about them over here to get up to speed.
What Exactly Are Pours Anyways?
If you’re new to indies the term “pour” refers to both the physical look of a toy (such as colours used), and the technique used to produce the pour. Indies use platinum-cure silicone, which is a two-part liquid material that cures into a solid shape. It does so using platinum as a curing catalyst, which unlike cheaper tin-cure silicone cures without harmful byproducts. Artisans mix the A and B parts of the silicone together in equal amounts to start the curing process. Different firmnesses have varying pot lives (working time) and cure times.
Pours start off as colour cups, which are cups of silicone tinted with pigments. Both liquid pigments (like Smooth On’s Silc Pig), and dry pigments such as mica mixes are used. Other additions such as micro-fine cosmetic glitter, glow in the dark (GITD/glow) or UV-reactive (UV) pigments may be added to the mix. Colours may be fully opaque (solid), or may have some translucence to them. It depends on how strongly the silicone is loaded with pigment.
Each colour used in a pour can have its own unique mix of pigments. For example, a three-colour toy may have one colour of GITD throughout, or it may have a different glow colour added to each cup. It’s possible for pours to have multiple glow or UV colours!
Once colours are mixed up, the cups are placed in a vacuum chamber and are degassed. This step ensures as much air as possible is removed before pouring, reducing the risk of bubbles getting trapped in the toy. Once fully degassed, the cups are removed from the chamber, and prepared for pouring. Cups may be used as-is, or may be poured into other containers for different pour techniques (such as a fade bowl/bucket, or split-pour cups).
Screenshot of a post from Alchemist Echidna showing a split pour cup, along with a poured toy butt.
Pour Guide and Gallery
Pouring techniques can result in completely different physical looks. It’s important to note that silicone is a liquid medium, and as such pours even within the same batch can vary a fair bit. Many of the following techniques can be combined to create unique looks!
Important note: Generally softer (and less pigmented) silicone tends to blend together more than firmer (and more heavily pigmented) silicone.
Pour samples are from my own collection. Model info is provided for each (L-R, back to front), and specs are listed as size/firmness. Sizes: S = Small, M = Medium, L = Large, firmnesses: SS = Super Soft/00-20, S = Soft/00-30, M = Medium/00-50.
Solid - The most basic pour type, the toy is poured using a single colour cup. These are often the cheapest toys as they’re relatively quick and simple to produce, and easier to batch.
An assortment of solid pours from a variety of makers. Pictured are Reactor Rings (S/SS and M/S, XCA), Double Sided Suction Cups (S and L, Sinnovator), Titania (Pocket/SS, HPE), Ambits (M and L/15A, Godemiche) and Offbeat Bubble (2”/S, Godemiche).
Marble - Two or more colours marbled together in a random pattern. Marbles can be larger and chunkier, or thinner and ribbon-like, depending on technique used. Marbles may also be spiralled if the mold is rotated as the toy is poured.
An assortment of marbled pours from a variety of makers. Pictured are: Bade (L/M, Made To Were/MTW), Joh (M/S, Strange BedFellas/SBF), Pluto (M/NC31, PPS), Snark (M/M, PPS), Staghorn (M/S, The Wicked Hunt/TWH), Minotaur (M/M, Wandering Bard Toys/WBT), Cortez (M/S, Twin Tail Creations/TTC).
Fade - Two or more colours that blend together, like a gradient. Generally pours with some translucence (not tinted to full opacity) tend to blend together more smoothly. Pours using more opaque colour mixes may have more noticeable transitions, or exhibit more wispiness between colours.
An assortment of fade pours from a variety of makers. Pictured are: Penghou (M/S, HPE), Sasquatch (L/00-40, Happy Hole Toys/HHT), Basilisk (L/S, WBT), Dapperling (OS/M, Jabbercocky), Wisp (M/M, Wyverns Vault/WV), Vishap (S/S, WV).
Highlight/Wash - One colour is poured into the mold, and rolled around to give it a thin coating. Once the highlight layer is sufficiently set (gelled) the core of the toy is poured. This technique pairs well with textured models, and can be combined with other pour styles.
A Scylla (M/M, HPE) with a highlight pour. The toy has a greenish colour, which is created by the chartreuse/yellow highlight over a gummy blue core.
Drip - One or more colours are gently dropped into the mold, and allowed to drip down the interior. Once the drips are gelled, the core of the toy is poured. White drips are commonly used for a “sloppy seconds” cum look, but other colours appear often.
Splatter pours are similar to drips, but often are applied all over the inside of the toy mold. They often result in thinner lines, as they’re “splatted” into the mold.
Important note: Drips should never be added to a toy after it is pulled! Due to how silicone cures, and the presence of mold release, additional outer layers are unlikely to bond to the toy fully and may pose a delamination hazard.
An assortment of drip pours from a variety of makers. Pictured are: Squishins (L/S, HPE), Sahl (L/S, SBF), Ceela (M/S, SBF), Titan (L/S, PPS), Lon (M/S, SBF), Gnoll (M/S, PF).
Split - Where there are two or more distinct sections to a toy. Sections may also have different firmnesses. Splits are often used to give the shaft and base two different pours, e.g., a marbled shaft in 00-30 silicone and solid base in 00-50. Splits are done by pouring one section, letting it gel, and then pouring the remaining portion.
An assortment of split pours from a variety of makers. Pictured are: Arion (M/S, TWH), Xenom (M/M, Baphoment’s Workshop/BW), Slavermaw (M/M, TWH), Mako (M/S, A Krows Nest/AKN), Torval (S/S, AKN), Egan (M/S, FG).
Stripes - A layered split pour, using two or more colours. The pour is built up by pouring one stripe, letting it gel, and then layering on the next stripe. Less time between layers often results in blurrier/looser lines, while more time results in crisper lines. There may be an additional upcharge for striped pours as they take additional time to produce.
A sampling of loose stripe pours, the lines between sections are less crisp. Pictured are: Ohdan (M/S, SBF) and Strap In (OS/00-50+20A, GentleStretch).
Screenshot of a post from Kudu Voodoo showing a pour batch featuring Pan coloured stripes.
Frankenpour - A hodgepodge pour done to use up leftover silicone from pour cups (to reduce waste). Often a mix of different colours roughly layered together. Usually only available as pre-made inventory.
Screenshot of a post from Northern Fantasy Toys showing a Frankenpour toy.
Advanced Techniques
These pours are beautiful, but very labour and/or time intensive, and may have a higher flop rate due to the multiple steps involved. They are often priced quite a bit higher due to these factors, and may not be offered as custom options.
Inclusions/Confetti - Inclusion pours feature pieces of silicone suspended within the toy. The inclusions may be shaped (e.g., like stars or hearts etc.), or may be more of a confetti style (made with chopped silicone bits).
These pours start off with the inclusions being poured in a mold, or onto a surface, that doesn’t require the use of mold release. This is important as exposure to mold release can lead to the inclusions not fully curing into the toy, posing a delamination hazard.
Once the silicone is set enough to handle, the shapes are pulled, or punched out, and then prepared for pouring. Inclusions may be mixed into silicone and poured as-is, or may be pressed into a clear skin layer for precise placement.
An assortment of inclusion pours from a variety of makers. Pictured are: Auren (S/M, PPS), Basilisk (M/S, WBT), Avir (M/S, FG), Colossal Squid (L/NC45, PF), Bones (OS/NC45, Only Goblins/PF).
Hand Painting - It is possible to use silicone to paint within a mold to add hand painted details to a toy. Varying in complexity from small simple additions like cow spots and sprinkles, to multicolored detailed designs. This technique opens many artistic possibilities!
Hand-painted elements are gently applied to the mold with heavily pigmented (or thickened) silicone. The art is built up via layering, and then allowed to gel. The remaining portion of the toy is then poured in the mold. These pours may have a higher incidence of minor bubble flops in/along the painted areas.
A selection of pours featuring hand-painted elements. Pictured are: Amarok (M/S, FG), Eros (M/S, Creature Feature Toys/CFT) and Kose (L/S, CFT).
About @HausGecko
Gecko is a passionate collector of colourful silicone and a member of the indie community on Twitter. Collecting for over two years their collection has grown to over 150 toys from 20+ shops, including makers from 🇨🇦, 🇺🇸, 🇬🇧 and 🇦🇺. They are a “Class G Goblin” who contributes infographics and educational resources to the community. 💚
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